Madeleines and financiers: two similar yet different little cakes

Butter cakes baked in small molds

Madeleines and financiers are both small French baked treats, and both put butter at the center of the flavor. The difference starts with the ingredients. Madeleines use whole eggs, mixed with flour, sugar and melted butter, and are baked in shell-shaped molds. Financiers use only egg whites, replace much of the flour with almond flour, and add butter that has been cooked until browned. As a result, madeleines are light and spongy, while financiers have crisp edges and a chewy, nutty inside.

Making madeleine batter

Whisk the eggs and sugar until evenly combined, fold in sifted flour and, depending on the recipe, baking powder, then add melted butter. Let the butter cool to warm rather than hot so it does not cook the eggs. Many recipes tell you to cover the batter and rest it in the fridge for a few hours or overnight. During that time the flour fully absorbs the liquid and the batter settles, which makes it easier to bake. Lemon zest or honey is a common way to add aroma.

• Mix the eggs and sugar evenly first
• Sift in the flour and do not overmix
• Cool the butter to warm before adding
• Cover the batter and rest it in the fridge

The madeleine's hump

A well-baked madeleine rises into a rounded bump in the middle of its back. The usual explanation is that the edges touch the hot mold and set first, while the still-soft center keeps expanding and is pushed upward. That is why cold, rested batter going into a fully heated oven is a common approach. Overfilled molds overflow and underfilled ones give less of a hump, so use the amount the recipe gives. A flat back makes little difference to the taste, so there is no need to obsess over it.

Preparing and unmolding

Mold preparation matters for a clean shape. A common method is to brush a thin layer of soft butter into each shell, dust with flour and tap out the excess. Thick pools of butter fry that part of the cake. Chilling the mold briefly to set the butter keeps it from sliding when you fill it. After baking, do not leave them sitting; turn them out right away onto a cooling rack. Left to cool in the mold, the bottoms go soggy from steam and stick.

Making financier batter

Financier egg whites are not whipped like a meringue; just stir them enough to break them up. Mix in almond flour, powdered or regular sugar and a small amount of flour, then add the brown butter last and stir until smooth. Without whipping, the batter is loose and dense, which is what gives the chewy inside. The yolks left over can go into custard or other dishes. Almond flour is oily and clumps easily, so sieve it or break it up by hand.

• Stir the whites to loosen them without whipping
• Break up any clumps in the almond flour
• Add the brown butter last

Browning butter

Melt butter in a light-colored pan over medium-low heat. It foams, the foam subsides, the solids at the bottom turn brown and you smell something nutty. At that point, take it off the heat and pour it into another bowl straight away, because the pan's leftover heat alone can quickly push it to a dark, burnt stage. A dark pan makes the color change hard to see, so a light one is easier. Melted butter is very hot and spatters if it meets water, so keep your face back and do not dip wet utensils into it.

Baking and storage

Both treats are small, so baking times are short and a few minutes can change the color a lot. Stay by the oven near the end. They are done when the edges are golden and the center springs back when pressed lightly. Financiers need well-browned edges for their crisp bite. Once fully cooled, keep them in an airtight container at room temperature; many people find they taste better after a day, once the butter flavor has spread evenly. For longer storage, wrap them individually and freeze, then thaw at room temperature before eating.

Safety and allergies

The almonds in financiers are a tree nut allergen, and reactions can be serious. When giving them as gifts or sharing, always say they contain almonds, and keep them away from tools used by anyone with a nut allergy. Both treats also contain wheat, eggs and dairy. Brown butter and hot metal molds pose a real burn risk, so use dry oven mitts and keep your wrists clear of the mold when turning it over. Raw batter contains uncooked egg and flour, so do not taste it. If you get burned, cool the area under cool running water for a good while, and see a doctor if the blistering is large or the pain is severe.